Spanish wines rarely make it to our dinner table anymore these days. Three reasons: punitive use of American oak (mostly in Rioja,) over-extracted alcohol bombs, and overpriced whites. These generalizations seem to hold true every time samples arrive, even when claiming otherwise. But this $12 wonder is an exception.
The 2017 Ego Bodegas Goru Gold Red Blend Jumilla ($12) is a monstrell-dominated (80%) blend from the southeast of Spain. Don't let the scary-looking guy on the bottle fool you: this rich red is impressive as much for what it isn't as what it is. No overt oak, no signs of manipulation in the cellar, and no overpowering sensation of alcohol (though it is labeled as 14.5%.) The absence of these things allows for the wine's balance and poise to shine, assisted by a precise structure that suggests it may improve with near term age, though it is already 4+ years old and plenty enjoyable now. That they're able to do all this and keep the price so accessible earn it a solid 92 points.
