As my taste buds have aged, my preferences have traded big wines for those with excitement derived from their athleticism and liveliness. But year after year, like Michael Corleone trying to resist the mafia, I'm drawn back to California chardonnay's largesse by this wine: the 2017 Smith-Madrone Chardonnay Spring Mountain ($45). Yes, it's massive, bold, and commanding. And, yes, it's rich, creamy, and all those other things that make up CaliChard's archetype. But it's also precise and haunting and in possession of an acidic profile that delineates its mass with an elegant, well-defined curve. It's also delicious. If you're a chardonnay lover, skip the guesswork and reach for this. 92 points (Sample)
