Staying with the Portuguese theme, but switching to Esporao's reds, the 2018 Herdade Do Esporao Colheita Red Alentejo $18 (Sample) is the polar opposite from the whites. The color is deep ruby and the density is fully opaque. Aromatics are gregarious, with black and blue fruit, fresh violets, and a whisper of balsamic. Consummately Portuguese in the mouth: a stiff backbone sturdily supports fruit that tastes darker and more tightly-coiled than the nose offered. Its acidity and coy fruit suggest longevity, and a need for both air and food. Day two proved that theory. Still, this is a wine to be tamed in order to be enjoyed.
