Last month I had the pleasure of visiting Paris for the first time. There'll be another post about my observations of the Parisians and their wines, but for now I'll share what has become a bit of a niche discovery. Of all the wines enjoyed there (and there were many,) the most memorable was a bit of a fluke. We were in a department store on our last day and sat down for some lunch at one of the many restaurant counters on a floor dedicated to eateries. The by-the-glass list included a fine Champagne, a swanky red Burgundy, a 10 year old Bordeaux, and a white wine I was unfamiliar with.
The 2021 Alphonse Mellot Fouilly-Fume is a layered, complex white made from sauvignon blanc grown in the Loire valley. Neither rich nor lean, it's got all kinds of soaring aromatics, and enough mineral and acidity to make it a real joy ride of a beverage. Precious little of this wine makes it to US shores and, as many wines worth seeking out, is from a region overshadowed by a more famous neighbor.
You've probably heard of Sancerre, even if you haven't had it. A current darling of the country club set, makes very good white wines with prices starting at around $30. Just across the Loire river from Sancerre is Pouilly-Fume. Sauvignon blanc reigns supreme in the Loire, and experimentation across the various sub-regions here has yet to disappoint. Though some Pouilly-Fumes can fetch prices north of $60, I've had terrific luck in the $20-25 range. Sure, it's a step up from my frugal pricing comfort zone, but the reward is worth the upcharge.
An important note: Pouilly-Fume is confusingly similar in name to Pouilly-Fuisse, a chardonnay growing region in Burgundy. Wines from these regions are nothing alike, but you'd be forgiven for mixing them up.
The Puoilly-Fume wines I've sampled since returning are thus far multi-dimensional, yet unpretentious and easy-drinking. White tree blossoms and pear-like fruit seem to typify the flavor profiles, which might not be for everyone, but, dang, I love drinking these wines. Case in point is the 2022 Domaine La Croix Canat Pouilly-Fumé 'La Chantepleure' $23, which I picked up from WTSO.
If you're looking for something special to have on hand as we head into the thick of holiday season, you could do much worse.
