A few weeks ago a retailer helping me with a selection made a casual, anecdotal comment: "Everyone's looking for a wine that drinks like red Burgundy for less than $30."
What he probably meant was that he is always on the lookout for a wine that drinks like red Burgundy for less than $30. I mean, his own California cabernet section is about 20 times larger than his Burgundy shelf, which speaks volumes about what his customers want. Anyway, much like quality west coast pinot for under $30, affordable red Burgundy is another unicorn of the wine business.
Opening the 2022 Clos des Fous Pinot Noir 'Pour Ma Gueule' Aconcagua Chile ($18) reminded me of that exchange. Past vintages of this wine have been enjoyable for their clean, streamlined profile, easy-drinking style, granular acidity, and attractive price point. But this vintage takes all those qualities to a new level, plus a certain invigorating energy that echoes Burgundy. Lovers of concentrated California pinot might find this too thin, or may well enjoy the fresh change of pace. And while it might fall short of transcendental, it's under $20 and easily keeps you coming back for more - which is why I just ordered a case of it.
