Chances are you've heard of the Gulf Stream, the ocean current moving warm water out of the Gulf of Mexico and north along the east coast. Fewer Americans, however, are familiar with the Humboldt Current, a similar oceanic current that originates in the cool waters of the south Pacific before running north along the west coast of South America. While the Gulf Stream moves warm water away from the equator, the Humboldt Current moves cold water towards it.
What does this have to do with wine? And why should you care? Well, as the planet (and California, in particular) warms, winegrowers are scrambling to adapt. Meanwhile, alcohol levels continue to rise, West Coast vineyards are threatened by fire, and prices outpace inflation by a country mile.
But this is not the case the world over. Down in Chile, a wine industry dating back to the 1800's continues to mature into a sophisticated collection of wineries showcasing the diversity of microclimates, most of which enjoy the tempering effects of the Humboldt Current. Combine those factors with the strength of the US dollar, and you've got a region deserving of your exploration.
Generally speaking, the closer to the ocean a Chilean vineyard lies, the cooler it'll be, and the more fog it'll get. As a result, varieties are planted more or less along vertical bands with cool-loving grapes (sauvignon blanc, riesling, etc.) growing closer to the coast, while grapes preferring warmer daytime temps (carmenere, syrah, etc.) are planted further inland.
Here's the headline: If you haven't already, it's time to put Chile on your wine shopping list. Though known best for sauvignon blanc and carmenere, Burgundian varieties do just fine here, and are as varied as what you'll find from any other region in the world. Reviews of 6 samples follow and demonstrate this well.
2023 Miguel Torres Chardonnay Cordillera de los Andes $20 Champagne color with a clean, enticing nose. On the palate, it's tropical and creamy, with a full, round body and a lingering sweet-edged finish. Not my style, but many will find plenty to enjoy here.
2020 Monte's Alpha Chardonnay Aconcagua $20 Pale straw in the glass, a voluptuous nose offering all kinds of malo effects, and that generosity carries into the mouth. But rather than being overblown, this Chardonnay, while exhibiting largesse, is quite poised. It's also got layers of complexity that'll appeal to lovers of northern California hillside-grown chardonnays, but at a fraction of the cost. Dead ringer for a Laguna Vineyard bottling. Yum. 14.5%
2021 Santa Rita Chardonnay Floresta $20 Lighter, brighter, and more floral than its cousins in this lineup, this shows a direct profile unencumbered by heavy cellar treatment. Reflecting the warmer inland climate of this vineyard, it finishes with a sweet kiss of pineapple and agave.
2020 Boya Pinot Noir Leyda Valley $20 Pretty in the glass with perfect garnet translucency, the nose is ripe and pretty, showing flowers, spice and dried orange peel. These all carry through to the palate, though the body is on the leaner side, along with black tea and heaps of complexity. Broadly appealing, fresh and vibrant. Food friendly.
2023 Terranoble Pinot Noir Algarrobo $15 Cherries, cherries and more cherries - dried, bing, fresh… this reserved pinot may lack oomph, but it remains a very complete wine. Delicate acidity frames the light body and 12.5% octane. From a cool vineyard, despite being 15+ miles from the coast, thanks to the Algorrobo gap that channels cool fog inland. Terrific food wine, and one I'd be curious about cellaring. Amazing value.